One route towards this, he says, is to recognise the “dignity” of all work. He mentions the sudden realisation by many people at the beginning of the pandemic that jobs society had long undervalued – such as food delivery – were in fact crucially important, while many other jobs could as easily be done remotely by laptop or, er, not at all. That this was a revelation to some tells its own story. Three cuts of venison sat on my friend’s plate at The Clove Club in east London. One, a perfectly cooked rare loin. Two, a cube of pressed haunch. And three, a faggot of offal, skewered on a pine twig cleaned of its lower needles, and looking much like the shaft and fletching of an arrow. Eureka, I thought – pine trees are semi-edible!
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